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HIKE BLOG

TA Day 77, Side trip! Abel Tasman National Park

My sandfly bites appreciate the salt water at Abel Tasman Park.
My sandfly bites appreciate the salt water at Abel Tasman Park.

Today is my second side trip, to beautiful Abel Tasman park. Steve makes a plan and we head out with Mozart cranked through the Moutere valley and mile after mile of grape vines.

It has the feel of California, those wineries, plus golden hills, water restrictions and ocean awaiting my eyes and body.

How did I get so lucky? Steve is a classical music fan but tunes into the local station. But when the opera comes on, he switches to his hometown station and saw the piece on the MPR website about my hiking the Te Araroa.

Of course he wrote and invited me to visit a place I long felt curious about. But who knew he and I – and Maggie – would hit it off so well. Like old friends, I’m already called Al.

The water taxi is brought to the launch by tractor.
The water taxi is brought to the launch by tractor.
Split apple rock at Abel Tasman National Park.
Split apple rock at Abel Tasman National Park.
Steve at the end of a Manuka tunnel.
Steve at the end of a Manuka tunnel.

With just a partial day, we take an aquataxi to Anchorage, carted out in low tide sand by a tractor named ‘Danger.’

The boat ride takes us to a perfectly split orb of granite, like William Tell’s handiwork, then seal spotting before we’re dropped off to walk on the coastal track to Te Pukatea, a tiny picture postcard bay. This gem of a park is dressed in white, green, turquoise and gold, the water’s vividness shocking the senses each time I look.

A woman at the Sound tells me the water takes on this brilliant shade of blue because the bush clarifies the water. That’s scientifically inaccurate I tell her, so she adds defiantly, “That’s what I like to tell myself.” And so do I, marveling at all the energy – and money – that’s gone into removing every invasive plant and every invasive pest in the bush as possible. Perhaps it has made the water that much more beautiful.

We sit on logs in the shade and eat bagels on the beach, with lox and extra cream cheese. Steve tells me about his journey across the Pacific on a 23-foot sail boat and I marvel at his courage and the sights he saw.

Soon, I’m in the water, salt burning into my fly bites. It’s cool as I bob in the waves and taste the brine. A shag peaks out, holding his head proudly before torpedoing away, his narrow brown body visible long after he’s under water.

Vogueing in my new $5 dress from the charity shop, Abel Tasman sprawling below.
Vogueing in my new $5 dress from the charity shop, Abel Tasman sprawling below.
A private bay at Abel Tasman.
A private bay at Abel Tasman.
A golden beach and a cove all to ourselves for the afternoon.
A golden beach and a cove all to ourselves for the afternoon.

The wind picks up and the air gets cold. I find seashells for Maggie, then we return on bumpy waves, belly flopping every now and then.

We grab a beer at the Hop Generation to share tonight when friends come for dinner. But first we meet them at the Nelson Centre for Musical Arts. Built in 1894 when locals were tramping with well-connected musicians and convinced them the colonial city needed culture. After the major trembler in Christchurch, it became obvious the auditorium needed earthquake proofing. At that time, Bob and the board convinced the council to add a modern section with studios and rehearsal space. It’s an attractive space – airy and light, decorated with local artwork.

I am so happy to see the space, only disappointed I arrive in between concerts. So we make music at home after conversation and food. Bob plays the kōauau, a Maori flute made of bone, which I try and immediately make speak. I am told that doesn’t happen often, but I feel a natural affinity and a deep stirring inside that I haven’t felt in a long time. It’s a desire to make music.

The mountains seems to grow out of the aquamarine water and golden sand of Abel Tasman park.
The mountains seems to grow out of the aquamarine water and golden sand of Abel Tasman park.
The inviting water that soothed my itchy skin.
The inviting water that soothed my itchy skin.
Evergreen kahikatea fringe the sea in the park, one of the oldest podocarp on the islands.
Evergreen kahikatea fringe the sea in the park, one of the oldest podocarp on the islands.

It’s quite the dinner party with singer Evie and actress Kat both performing for us, followed by a look at Wearable Art, a show that had its origins in Nelson.

The day touched on the sensual – the breathtaking beauty of Abel Tasman, its sound, smell and even taste as well as its physical presence, felt by my feet in the soft, warm sand and by all of me in the water’s capricious embrace. This was followed by a deep instinct within me to make sound, an impulse that led me to become a professional musician and one still so natural and right.

It was a side trip day, one meant to be a rest and one meant to prepare me for my hike continuing tomorrow. These powerful and unexpected experiences went a step further, amazing me and enriching me.

I lay down ready to sleep now, happy, satisfied and humbled by all the gifts I’ve received on this adventure in New Zealand. I am grateful.

The friendly barkeep at Hop Federation Brewery where I had an NPA – Nelson Pale Ale.
The friendly barkeep at Hop Federation Brewery where I had an NPA – Nelson Pale Ale.
One of the gorgeous pieces on the wall at the Nelson Centre of Musical Arts.
One of the gorgeous pieces on the wall at the Nelson Centre of Musical Arts.
The lovely theatre and organ that was saved by the community.
The lovely theatre and organ that was saved by the community.

8 Responses

  1. I was at the MO concert last night, here in decidedly gray and drab MN, and the featured work was “American Nomad,” from Steve Heitzeg, featuring “our own” trumpet soloist, Charles Lazarus. Oh. My. What a show! And while the work’s them is the Life Journey which all of us travel, it also chronicles a “real road trip” from New York to the Joshua Tree in CA. Your Te Araroa hike fits right into the music, Alison…American Nomad par excellence!

  2. It seems that this little side trip managed to press all your buttons, the best ones! What an awesome experience it must have been, how deeply satisfying! So envious!

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