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TA Day 122, ‘zero day’ Otautau

I only have a few things to share from this very lazy day of reading, writing, editing, eating and giggling at the Railway Hotel, my odd – but ideal – respite. Jenel posts this ad on social and it resonates because I am called ‘crazy’ today by the cute checkout girl at the Four Square […]

TA Day 121, ‘zero day’ Otautau

I tossed and turned last night, waking momentarily to see a waning gibbous moon perched on a cloud. My day is one of fresh vegetables and talking through the last few days’ unfortunate events with a police officer and the chief executive of the Te Araroa Association to gain clarity and consider my options going […]

TA Day 120, Birchwood to Merrivale Hut, 28 km

I wake with the others in the bunk room, a bit groggy and hung over from the drama of the previous evening. Life goes on for this group of hikers and supporters even though they leave me feeling depleted. The weather is supposed to clear today, so I decide to get up, pack up and […]

TA Day 119, Lower Wairaki Hut to Birchwood, 36 km

Rain fell all night. I am so happy that I stayed in a hut, tucked into my bunk with my quilt keeping me cozy. Russell is up early getting his rain gear assembled, the sky still dark. Pete ambles out of bed and we all shuffle about preparing for a big day ahead to take […]

TA Day 118 Lower Princhester Hut to Lower Wairaki Hut, 31 km

I’m awakened by birds peeping in that silver flute tone of theirs, the sky barely light. I am more of a morning person than Tony, though he races outside for wood and builds up another roaring fire. I really enjoyed sharing the space with him – good conversation and laughter. I take a picture before […]

TA Day 117, Mavora Lake to Lower Princhester Hut, 22 km

A clear, windy night gave way to a rainy, windy night. Even with piles of rocks, one stake slips out and the alicoop caves in until I emerge into the blustery night in my undies and reattach her. I am warm and cozy inside, but at around 5 the rain let up and I saw […]

TA Day 116, Taipo Hut to Mavora Lake, 27 km

The stars were electric last night, even as the super moon made a grand entrance, lighting up one stray cloud in the crook of high peaks. First, just a silver tint, then as though someone turned on an inner light before the mountains gave birth to a bright candle-glow-yellow orb, slowly taking over the sky.

TA Day 115, McKellar Hut to Taipo Hut, 28 km

It’s a night shared with smokers, door slammers and snorers, but it turns out to be pretty fun in a new, large hut – replete with flush toilets – filled at capacity with trampers, though not a single TA hiker but me. Good conversation and energy. The sky is clear and even as it gets […]

TA Day 114, ‘detour’ Routeburn River to McKellar Hut, 38 km

It rained all night. I am dry and warm in the alicoop, but I don’t think I can hike an alpine trail of 32 kilometers in pouring rain. For the first time on this odyssey, I’m stuck. I try to be practical and think through every possibility as I remain snug and fat raindrops hit […]