The most thrilling part of the trail, the tramper passes by turquoise lakes, needs to negotiate dangerous river crossings, and cracks up to mystical Stag Pass.

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It's easy to Boyle Village and two men offer to stay together for the dangerous river crossings ahead.
The Harper Pass Track on flats and forest leads to a soak in a hot springs filled by waterfalls.
Harper Pass takes me down an eroded landslip to several tricky crossings of the Taramakau.
A long day of sidling and crossings is followed by a walk up rapids and rocks on the Deception River.
The remaining trail of roots, mud and stream crossings is through heavy mist.
I take a well-deserved zero day itching sandfly bites as the rain crashes down.
We call an SOS for an injured hiker and I learn a friend from day 1 also wiped out here.
It's a hot and short walk along rocky riverbed that's hard on the feet with multiple river crossings.
A couple gives me a ride around the impassable Rakaia river and become lifelong friends.
This section is magical on river-as-trail and over a saddle to a valley of giant clouds.
Running out of food, the local ranch owner gives me enough food to cross the Rangitata.
A side trip to Mount Sunday starts the day before a crossing the braided Rangitata and up the Two Thumbs.
I break down (briefly) on the steep Two Thumb Track from heat, exhaustion and mean Kiwis.
Stag Saddle is the highest point on the Te Araroa with a 360-degree view from Beuzenberg Peak.
The path is clear to road, past farms and down to the radiant turquoise of Tekapo under a cloudy sky.
I slept poorly last night with all the rustling about, phones going off and generally being stressed out knowing I
At some point in life the world's beauty becomes enough. —Toni Morrison The stars were spectacular overnight and I slept
Being alone is, we know, the best chance you have to be yourself, which is in turn the seed of
In New Zealand, thousands of huts in the back country provide shelter for trampers.
The weather is wild in New Zealand ranging from hot days to storms with gale force winds.
The saying goes that in the North Island, you get dirty and in the South, you wash.